Giles Deacon on Carving Out His Own Fashion Calendar

The designer speaks with BoF’s Imran Amed about the importance of creative autonomy in a time of ‘product for more product’s sake.

Designer Giles Deacon’s list of clients is impressive, and includes Billie Porter, Sarah Jessica Parker and the New York City ballet. Deacon’s runway shows were once counted as one of the most exciting events at London Fashion Week. But a few years ago, he decided to leave all that behind, focusing on growing his private client business instead. In the latest episode of The BoF Podcast, Deacon spoke with BoF Founder and Editor-in-Chief Imran Amed about what it’s been like to buck the system in a meaningful way.

After a few years working in the fashion industry, Deacon became disillusioned by the pace of production. “[It] was about designing more and more product for more product’s sake,” he said. So he decided to return to his art school days, focusing on craftsmanship and elaborate designs.
For Deacon, creative autonomy is crucial. If couture designers are to deliver spectacular garments, they need time and artistic independence. “The beauty of the bespoke is to be able to work with the client to give them that sense of service and exclusivity,” said Deacon, adding that his network of VIP customers has grown organically through word of mouth.
Lockdown hasn’t stopped Deacon from working over the past few months. “I have been doing sketching, consultations and FedExing patterns,” he said. “It’s gotten smaller, but things still move along.” Looking to the future, Deacon said social distancing measures have prompted him to rethink his own practices. “I have become more conscious of my travelling… [Once lockdown restrictions are lifted, I may travel] less but possibly for longer.”

Watch and listen to more #BoFLIVE conversations here. To contact The Business of Fashion with comments, questions, or speaker ideas please e-mail podcast@businessoffashion.com.

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