Old neighbourhood pubs around the Liberties, Smithfield, Ringsend and Stoneybatter have the highest percentages of regulars. As publican O’Dowd proudly pronounces: “Regulars here would be as high as 85 per cent. We get three generations of customers in here . . . possibly four.” In such traditional pubs it has been customary that when a lad comes of age his father will bring him in for his first pint. It is a rite of passage into manhood, often as memorable as one’s first holy communion. Of course, every person is entitled to eventually choose their own local. Pub selection is determined by such factors as family tradition, character of the staff, hospitality of regular customers, quality of drink, and general ambience. As John-Joe Kennedy, 75, of the Liberties avows, once a man decided upon his local he was loyal for life. “You made one pub your local and you were part of the furniture then, you stuck to your local.” Some discriminating Dubliners, like Tom Corkery, are very specific in identifying criteria which constitute their “ideal” local pub.